反対するs are small bits of electronics that have many 使用/適用s in sensing and 支配(する)/統制する, for instance in checking how 急速な/放蕩な a 軸 is turning.
There are many variations on the 主題, but they all have at least one 数字表示式の input, and they all have a way to be connected to a computer.
Inside the 反対する are some electronics to keep 跡をつける of a number. The number you get when you first 適用する 力/強力にする 変化させるs, and you don't want to get too 関心d about that.
(力/強力にするing it up often 無s the 反対する. Also, there are often ways to "持つ/拘留する" a number with 殴打/砲列 backup for the main 力/強力にする.)
The important thing is that once 力/強力にする has been 適用するd, the number held in the 反対する goes up by 1 each time the input to the 反対する changes. Also, the computer connected to the 反対する has a way of seeing what the number is whenever the computer wants that number.
井戸/弁護士席. Sort of. I said the number goes up by 1 each time the input changes. More typically, the number goes up whenever the input goes from "0" to "1" (a "肯定的な 辛勝する/優位"), or, in the 事例/患者 of other 反対するs, whenever the input goes from "1" to "0" (a "消極的な 辛勝する/優位")
Also... what happens when the number in the 反対する gets "too big"? In most 事例/患者s, it just goes 支援する to 無, like the odometer of a car.
There are all sorts of refinements on these 主題s, but the basics explained above will cover a lot of your needs.
Reading, 陳列する,発揮するing a changing windspeed
A little digression here.
Lets suppose you have something on the roof that spins around in the 勝利,勝つd. You've 大(公)使館員d a magnet to the 軸 of your anemometer, and put a reed switch 近づく the magnet, and connected the simple 回路・連盟 that 料金d a whole lot of 1's and 0's to a 反対する when the 勝利,勝つd blows.
If you like having a difficult life, you can do all sorts of fancy things to try to check the 反対する once a minute. You then look up what the reading was a minute ago, subtract that from the reading now, and then try to 陰謀(を企てる) that number as an 指示,表示する物 of the windspeed.
First problem: On a still or nearly day, you'll see no "blip", or very little
Second problem: How much space, vertically, should you 始める,決める aside for where the line will go on a really 風の強い day? What happens if it gets windier than you've 供給するd for. It's those 記録,記録的な/記録する days that are most 利益/興味ing, so you certainly don't want to 単に "chop off" the too high lines!
There's a better way.
The x axis of your graph is still time. 選ぶ yourself a 反対する that only goes up to 255 before going 支援する to 無, and 始める,決める aside 260 pixels vertically.
From time to time, it doesn't have to be 特に 定期的に, check the 反対する's 現在の value, and 陰謀(を企てる) that at the corresponding x/y position on the graph.
When there is no 勝利,勝つd, you'll get a nice, 水平の, line. Its 高さ on the y axis is unimportant.
If you have a 穏やかな 微風, your line will slowly rise. 結局, it will get 近づく the 最高の,を越す of the space you've 始める,決める aside, but don't worry! すぐに after that, it will "magically" jump 負かす/撃墜する to the 底(に届く) of the space again, and then carry on gently rising.
If you have a strong 微風, the 状況/情勢 will be 類似の, but the line will be rising more 速く.
With just a little practice, you'll soon be able to "read" such graphs without even having to think much about it. The steeper the line, the stronger the 勝利,勝つd.
And, oh yes, by the way, you've just had your first calculus lesson. That wasn't so awful, was it?
Good 1-Wire 反対する modules
In a moment, we reach some sad news. Before that, if you are "up for" a somewhat コンビナート/複合体 answer, I can point you to a page about using the 金物類/武器類 反対する inside Atmega Arduinos. (I 嫌疑者,容疑者/疑う other Arduinos have 類似の 施設s, but I know that you can use a 反対する in an Atmega)
When this page was created, I said "If you are using the Dallas 1-Wire LAN for your sensing and 支配(する)/統制する, you can buy a DS2423 二重の 反対する module for that from www.hobby-boards.com. Both 反対する inputs are 利用できる."
Sadly, Dallas (now DalSemi) have not, at 5/16, been producing the (excellent) 半導体素子 for some time now, nor have they produced a 交替/補充, as far as I know. And Hobby Boards was, sad for us... probably a 救済 for the man who worked so hard for us, の近くにd its doors 早期に in 2016.
There was another good 反対する module 利用できる from AAG. I believe the part number is TAI8585KIT. That 会社にする/組み込むs a reed switch, but I imagine you could get at the 関連した 関係s if you 手配中の,お尋ね者 to solder in a different switch. The switch 料金d both 反対する inputs. At 5/16, I believe they've been "gone away" for some time too. Sigh.
Click here for lots of stuff about the 1-Wire (aka Microlan) system.
修理ing an old Dallas 反対する module
The 反対する module sold with the Dallas / AAG rain 計器 was (c. 2000), and for all I know, still is, known to fail 予定 to a capacitor on the board failing. If it fails, it often runs the 殴打/砲列 flat before you know it.
Before I go その上の, let me make (疑いを)晴らす that another 問題/発行する isn't as 関係のある as you might think. どこかよそで you can learn about 1-Wire 装置s 存在 力/強力にするd either "parasitically" or 分かれて. The 反対する module we are discussing is parasitically 力/強力にするd. The 殴打/砲列 does not 供給する 力/強力にする for the 装置's 操作/手術; the 殴打/砲列 単に makes the 装置's memory 非,不,無-volatile.
The 反対する will still work if you 除去する the capacitor, and, if 発射する/解雇するd, the 殴打/砲列. It will no longer be able to remember the previous count after a period of 存在 disconnected from the 網状組織, but it will count 適切に. I 嫌疑者,容疑者/疑う you could 取って代わる the capacitor and 殴打/砲列 with 交替/補充s and 回復する 十分な functionality.
To 成し遂げる the 外科:
First, you will need to 除去する the waterproofing in places. It doesn't stick to what it is on very 不正に. If you can "pinch" a it of it in your needlenoses, and pull it away from the board, you can then 削減(する) it the distended piece, and open a way into the 残り/休憩(する) of the 職業.
Turn the 反対する module so that the wires are coming out of the 辛勝する/優位 on your 権利, and the 殴打/砲列 (12mm 直径 cylinder) is on the 味方する you are NOT looking at. 今後, "負かす/撃墜する" will, as it often does, however illogically, 言及する to に向かって you.
On the left 手渡す 辛勝する/優位 (LHE) of the 装置, there is "something" under the waterproofing. This is the reed switch, and it is 壊れやすい. You have been 警告するd!
7mm from the 権利 手渡す 辛勝する/優位 (RHE) and 近づく the 底(に届く) 辛勝する/優位 (BE) you will see that there's a 4mm x 2mm 装置 under the waterproofing. (I won't keep repeating "under the waterproofing from here on. AND... when I saw something is 4mm x 2mm, I will take care to give the left-and-権利 dimension first.)
Leave that one (7mm from RHE) alone! A little その上の left and up, 中心 at 13mm from RHE, 6mm from BE, there's a 2mm x 4mm surface 開始する 装置 (SMD). This is the 推定するd-failed capacitor. If you want to be 徹底的な and "good", you could 取って代わる it. Tantalum capacitors were recommended, 0.01uf.
Now.. the "殴打/砲列" (I'll use the more 正確な "独房" from here onward.) The simple answer: Assume it is dead; 孤立する as explained below.
Turn the board over so that the 独房 is 直面するing you and the board's wires are coming out to your left.
The 味方する of the 独房 closest to the board and the 味方するs of the 独房 are connected to +ve. The 味方する of the 独房 直面するing you, and the little metallic ひもで縛る you can probably see connecting about 11mm from the LHE, 5mm from the BE. This is the 関係 to 0v. I leave it to you to 手段 the 独房's voltage if you wish to.
To disconnect the 独房, you only need to snip through the easily accessible little metallic ひもで縛る which connect the 最高の,を越す of the 独房 to the pcb.
By the way: The reed switch is wired to both the 反対する inputs on the 半導体素子. This is good, as your ソフトウェア can look at either for the 降雨. It is bad, though, if you want to use the two 反対するs in the 半導体素子 for two different pulse trains. If you like a challenge, you may 後継する in cutting he trace between the 脚s of the SMD. If you want to try....
Turn the board over again, 非,不,無-独房 味方する, wires coming out to your 権利. 20mm from the RHE, 8mm from the 最高の,を越す is a 4mm x 4mm SMD. The upper 権利 手渡す corner pin is "1", the pins, as usual, are numbered 反対する-clockwise around the 半導体素子. Pin 5 (middle, 底(に届く) 辛勝する/優位) is the input for Page 15's 反対する, and pin 6 (底(に届く) 権利 corner) is the input for Page 14. It is easiest, in 金物類/武器類 条件, to leave the on-board reed switch connected to pin 5, and to "解放する" pin 6 for your own use.
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