Tags in the form of buttons ($4) (thin, 1.6cm across, no 穴を開けるs) or credit cards ($2) or keyring fobs are 利用できる too.
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The page is in two parts...
a) At the 最高の，を越す, there's a very basic program, introducing you to using the RFID reader with an Arduino.
b) At the 底（に届く） is a second 見解／翻訳／版 of the program. It has been created by わずかに 修正するing the first, to create something to open a door when either of two 明確な／細部 RFID 装置s are brought 近づく the reader.
Before we get 負かす／撃墜する to work, how's this for a neat way to carry an RFID tag with you everyday? The central photo shows the tag. It is a small glass 要約する／（宇宙ロケットの）カプセル. Sparkfun sell them in this form for about $5. My watch ひもで縛る just happens to have a little cavity, just the perfect size, on its underside. I'm still looking for the "perfect" glue to 持つ／拘留する it in place. Hot-melt glue wasn't the answer.
Be advised: Tags come in several "flavors". Be sure when ordering tags for your reader that you order the 権利 sort. (Each of the "権利 sorts" is usually 利用できる in 多重の forms, e.g. 重要な fob, class 要約する／（宇宙ロケットの）カプセル.)
Tags in the form of buttons ($4) (thin, 1.6cm across, no 穴を開けるs) or credit cards ($2) or keyring fobs are 利用できる too.
In this page I will show you the basics of connecting an 革新s ID-20 RFID reader, 利用できる from Sparkfun.com, to an Arduino. ($35, (+p&p, 12/11.. 不変の at 2/19) While the essay was written while working with an ID-20, I don't believe that 使用者s of the ID-12 would do anything different. (The ID-12 is いっそう少なく expensive, $30, (+p&p, 12/11 & 2/19) but doesn't read over such a long 範囲 (120mm spec, vs 180mm)... In hindsight, I don't thing the extra 範囲 of the ID-20 makes any difference to me, in my 使用／適用. I have the ID-20 behind a pane of glass, and "wipe" my RFID tag across the glass. I don't think the ID-12 would have trouble. But $5 to the extra 力／強力にする doesn't seem much either.
I have to bring my tag within about 8cm of the reader anyway, so 存在 closer isn't a problem. See below for an even いっそう少なく expensive 選択.)
If you take my advice, if you buy the Sparkfun 製品, you will also buy two of the 2mm socket （土地などの）細長い一片s that Sparkfun 在庫／株 for you. Sadly, the useful breakout board Sparkfun used to 申し込む／申し出 was 名簿（に載せる）／表（にあげる）d as "retired" 2/19. But it's no big 取引，協定. (It was Part SEN-08423, 95 cents, if you want to look at the spec. (Search on SEN-08423, then follow the obscure "retired 製品s" link at the 底（に届く） of the results page. Let me know, if they bring it 支援する into 在庫／株, please? Sorry- the pin numbers used below are the pins as numbered on that, but 人物／姿／数字ing out what you need to shouldn't be hard.
After I'd built one instance of my RFID 接近 支配（する）／統制する 解答, I 遭遇（する）d a different source for a reader... $11 (+p&p, Dec 11)... to go at the heart of it, ITeadStudio.com. 式のs, they no longer do one, but there are many sources. (Be sure the one you are considering 申し込む／申し出s serial 生産（高）, though.)
The ソフトウェア 現在のd here 作品 罰金 with either reader, without tweaks. I've bought 125mHz tags from Sparkfun, from ITeadStudio, and from an eBay source... all work 罰金 with either reader. ITeadStudio has some nice 28mm "重要な fob" tags, and they don't emblazon their logo across their 製品.
Speaking of eBay... in 新規加入 to the tags I did receive... I saw some tags on eBay at a "too good to be true" price... and it was. にもかかわらず sending $3.98 by PayPal (Aug 11) to xiao2huan for something very like item 150632480332 (Dec 11), and a civil 交流 of emails, no tags ever arrived, not the first 出荷／船積み, not 約束d 交替／補充. Have you ever tried to "work with" eBay when there's a problem? For a start, I can no longer call up the item description to see how the 販売人 was 名簿（に載せる）／表（にあげる）d. (販売人 指名するs and PayPal accounts are often different, いつかs for good 推論する／理由s.) There is a price for everything. I often get good 取引，協定s 経由で eBay... but it is not unknown to be out of pocket. I look at it as just the price I 支払う／賃金 for the good times.
Enough about the reader! I should also について言及する the "Arduino" I've had the code in for at least 8 years of trouble 解放する／自由な 接近 to my home. I built this 事業／計画（する） with a Modern 装置 RBBB. $6, 道具 form (very 平易な 議会. 利用できる 組み立てる／集結するd. (Usually $11)) 2/19 sale.
These are the only 関係s you need to make....
That's about it! In the data sheet you will read that pin 10 is an 生産（高） which, 適切に connected (at least a resistor... probably transistor 加える resistor) can 運動 an LED, which will light when the reader "sees" an RFID 装置. Not necessary to what follows, but I について言及する it, just in 事例／患者 your needs are different.
At this point, you can continue reading, and cover some background （警察などへの）密告，告訴（状） which I think you might welcome, or you can "skip to the end", to go straight to the RFID-controlled door lock 構成要素.
Here are the 必須のs from that, in diagram form...
The 手はず／準備 for pins 1 and 7 are done that way to 融通する the particular proto-board I use, which has only a 選び出す／独身 connecting point outside the 足跡 of the Sparkfun breakout board.
While with the simple ソフトウェア I am using at the moment, there is no need to be able to change the 明言する／公表する of pin 2, and it should be kept at 5v, that pin is an input to the reader, and by having two long wires, one from pin 2, one from pin 11, to your source of 5v, you will be able to use the pin 2 input later, if you decide you want to use the feature it 支配（する）／統制するs.
Pin 9 from the RFID reader is where the reader 生産（高）s (TTL, inverted) what it reads from RFID 装置s... when the reader is configured for its ASCII 方式, which it will be, if you've connected it as above.
Leave the other pins connected to nothing. Don't worry about floating inputs.
You will have to check the datasheet if you have an ID-2. They are 類似の 装置s... but there may be some minor but 重要な differences to 融通する. I don't believe that anything I've said here about working with the ID-20 doesn't 適用する 平等に to working with the わずかに いっそう少なく expensive, わずかに いっそう少なく 極度の慎重さを要する ID-12.
Put the に引き続いて into your Arduino, switch over to the serial 監視する, bring an RFID 装置 (of the proper type) 近づく the reader, and you should see something like.....
2 48 48 51 54 53 70 56 65 50 55 67 52 13 10 3
Move the RFID 装置 away, bring it 支援する again, and the line should be repeated. Move the RFID 装置 away, bring a new one 近づく, and a different (but 類似の) line should appear, perhaps...
2 52 50 48 48 52 52 55 55 51 53 52 52 13 10 3
The strings always begin with a 2 and end with a 3. You can 追加する code to check that these are seen, as a check that the 部隊 wasn't outputting rubbish, or that you misread what it sent.
It is possible to bring the RFID 装置 支援する again too quickly after moving it away. If you think your reader is "行方不明の" 現在のd 装置s, be just a little 審議する／熟考する in your "move it away"/ "move it 支援する" 過程. The reader stops reading after it reads a 装置 once until it （悪事，秘密などを）発見するs no 装置 現在の. It then "re-武器" itself. Having said all of that, it should be able to do, say, three reads in five seconds.
The next 10 bytes will be the ASCII for the RFID 装置's unique code.
The next two are a checksum, which you can ignore for now, or 扱う／治療する as part of the unique code from the RFID 装置. (The code 現在のd here doesn't 現実に do anything except tell you the number carried by the RFID 装置. When we 延長する it to make an electronic lock which opens when the first 装置 above was brought 近づく the reader, we will 追加する code which 取引，協定s with what the に引き続いて pseudocode 暗示するs:
if (装置 seen had
48 48 51 54 53 70 56 65 50 55 67
in it) (then) OpenDoor
As the RFID 装置 with that code is one that I own, the lock wouldn't be much use to you... you would have to change the number to the number inside an RFID 装置 you own!
Going 支援する to our 分析 of what the RFID reader 生産（高）s when a 装置 has been read...
After the "stuff" already 述べるd: Always a 13 and a 10, the codes for "CR" (carriage return) and "LF" (line 料金d).
And lastly: the number "3", as already について言及するd.
The code to make that happen....
//RFIDsimple1
//ver 20 Feb 11, tweaked in webpage, 27 Jun 2011
//started 20 Feb 11
//For http://sheepdogguides.com/arduino/art3rfid1.htm
//Much of this derives from serial interfacing advice at
// http://sheepdogguides.com/arduino/art4SeSimpFrmIDE.htm
//and
// http://sheepdogguides.com/dt4t.htm
#含む <NewSoftSerial.h>
//Yes, NEWSoftSerial... I don't think SoftwareSerial has the
//批判的な "利用できる()" 機能（する）／行事, does it?
const int SerInToArdu=2; //Defines pin data passes
//to Arduino over from RFID reader
const int SerOutFrmArdu=3; //Not used, but
//"fills" a parameter in the 始める，決める up of
//mySerialPort
NewSoftSerial mySerialPort(SerInToArdu,SerOutFrmArdu);
// Creates serial port for RFID reader to be 大（公）使館員d to.
// Using pins 0 and 1 is problematic, as they are also
// connecting the 開発 PC to the Arduino for
// programming, and for the 生産（高） sent to the serial
// 監視する.
無効の 体制／機構()
{
Serial.begin(9600);//For 接近 to serial 監視する channel
Serial.println("Bring an RFID tag 近づく the reader...");
mySerialPort.begin(9600);
};
無効の 宙返り飛行()
{
int incomingByte=0;//create and initialize a 地元の variable
//The "then" part of the に引き続いて will only 遂行する／発効させる
// after the RFID reader has sent something to the Arduino
if (mySerialPort.利用できる() > 0) {
// read the 後継の byte from the serial 衝撃を和らげるもの
incomingByte = mySerialPort.read();
// show what was received
Serial.print(incomingByte, DEC);
Serial.print(' ');
if (incomingByte==3) Serial.println();
};
}
That's the heart of reading RFID tags with the 革新s modules from Sparkfun and others! Not too hard to follow, I hope? If you need help with the 概念s associated with reading a stream of serial data from something outside the Arduino, my tutorial about how to send （警察などへの）密告，告訴（状） to your Arduino from a PCmight be useful... but that might 単に distract at this point. The above should Just Work.
The simple デモ above can be 延長するd to make an 接近 監査役 based on the Sparkfun ID-20, which interfaces easily to the Arduino easily.
You'll need some way to 打ち明ける whatever you are controlling 接近 to. An electromechanical strikeplate may 井戸／弁護士席 be part of the answer.
On the ソフトウェア 前線, the program above is 罰金 for 決定するing the number 供給（する）d by a given RFID tag, and it is a start on a program that, for instance, opens a door when a particular tag is 現在のd.
First let's look at how we を取り引きする the fact that your program and the reader operate "asynchronously". At the moment that the reader 選ぶs up the presence of a tag, and sends the number to your program, your program may be "away", doing other things.
Happily, the Arduino 雇うs 衝撃を和らげるものs, and the NewSoftSerial library has an "利用できる()" 機能（する）／行事. Also, every string from the reader begins with a "2", and ends with a "3". They 許す you to 確認する that you are reading one string of bytes from the reader, not the second half of one, and the first half of a その後の string.
(You can skip over this section, if you are in a hurry, and don't care about some minor 詳細（に述べる）s.)
If you 供給する your system with an LED to flash with a message, you can get it to 報告（する）／憶測 to you when it reads something that can't be 権利.
What do I mean by that?
In the simplest 事例／患者, I would 単に check the 12 bytes between the "2" and the "13 10 3", and if they matched what one of the 権限を与えるing RFID tags would 現在の, I'd open the door.
The fancier program would 追加する a check to see if the program is seeing possible numbers. How, in the simple 事例／患者, do we （悪事，秘密などを）発見する a misread?
How, in 原則, do we （悪事，秘密などを）発見する a misread in a fancy 事例／患者? Like this...
The first ten bytes returned after the "2" are, 厳密に speaking, the number embedded in the tag. The next two bytes, if all is working 適切に, will always be the same for a given 先行する ten bytes... but WHAT those numbers should be follows a 支配する. They are a "checksum". (The link will take you to the Wikipedia article, which you don't need to read.)
Forget the RFID reader, etc, for a moment. I'll give you a very simple example of a checksum.
Suppose that you had to build something which would 単に send a 選び出す／独身 digit from "A" to "B" every thirty seconds, but it won't always be the SAME digit. And その上の suppose that you are 関心d that because of the way you are sending it, the data may become garbled... it might happen that a "5" sent from "A" might be received as, say, "7" at "B".
A very simple checksum could be done as follows.
Every thirty seconds you would, as before, send a digit. But then, in 新規加入, you would also send a second digit, a checksum. If you sent a 1, the checksum digit would be a 9. If you sent an 8, you'd send 2 as the checksum. Etc...
Data Checksum 1 9 2 8 3 7 4 6 5 5 6 4 7 3 8 2 9 1
At the receiving end, you compare the digit received and the checksum received, and if they don't 追加する up to 10, you know that one or the other became corrupted in 伝達／伝染.
The RFID tags read by the 革新s readers do something which is 事実上 the same, just a bit more "clever"....
We have to take a little digression into number systems.
In the program at the 最高の，を越す of the page, the data from the RFID tag is read and 陳列する，発揮するd as, for instance,....
2 48 48 51 54 53 70 56 65 50 55 67 52 13 10 3
Discard the "wrappings"... the "2" at the start, the "10 13 3" at the end.
Now go through and "translate", using the ASCII code. That turns what we had above into....
48 48 51 54 53 70 56 65 50 55 67 52 0 0 3 6 5 F 8 A 2 7 C 4
(You can use an online ASCII code （米）棚上げする／（英）提議する, but all you really need to know for this is....
Decimal Stands for 48 0 49 1 50 2 51 3 52 4.... and 65 A 66 B 67 C....
Take the translated bytes, and 令状 them out in pairs....
00 36 5F 8A 27 C4
If you 扱う／治療する these as hex numbers, and XOR the first 5, the result should match the last number, &C7. (The "&" prefix tells you that I mean a hex number by the "C7".)
Hmmm... I わびる to those of you who by now have a 頭痛. On the other 手渡す, many readers won't have a 頭痛... it isn't as hard as it may seem if you 港／避難所't met this sort of thing before. I will try to 現在の some code for you one day. If any other Arduino 使用者 would like to send me a subroutine to return a boolean to tell us if the first 10 bytes and the 2 checksum bytes cross-check, I'd be 感謝する... not least for your ideas of the simplest, most beginner- friendly- without- 存在- too- inefficient way of 持つ／拘留するing the data from the reader! (If you would like your website 促進するd when I 会社にする／組み込む your work here, don't hesitate to send me the URL to 含む.)
I hope the above answered some questions for you? Don't hesitate to 令状 and tell me what your main remaining questions are... or use the excellent Arduino 会議 to get answers... they are probably already in the 会議 古記録s, if you don't want to wait for your question to be re-answered....
I now have my 前線 door 開始 when I 現在の an RFID tag to a reader in a window by my 前線 door. The RFID tag "lives" in a crevice in the ひもで縛る of my wristwatch.
First the code. It is derives from the program above, with (really!) just a little 追加するd. There are comments in the code to help you follow what is going on.
//RFIDcrude1 //ver 22b Feb 11 //Derived from RFIDsimple1 //started 22 損なう 11 //For http://sheepdogguides.com/arduino/art3rfid1.htm //Much of this derives from serial interfacing advice at // http://sheepdogguides.com/arduino/art4SeSimpFrmIDE.htm //and // http://sheepdogguides.com/dt4t.htm #含む <NewSoftSerial.h> //Yes, NEWSoftSerial... I don't think SoftwareSerial has the //批判的な "利用できる()" 機能（する）／行事, does it? const int LockPin=4;//pin to 支配（する）／統制する electromechanical // strikeplate (欧州通貨制度) and optional LED. //欧州通貨制度: http://www.arunet.co.uk/tkboyd/ec/ec1ems.htm //Change pin used if you wish. //DO NOT USE PIN 13 FOR THIS. //Consider your lock-運動ing 回路・連盟s carefully... // is LockPin high, or LockPin low the best 明言する／公表する // to use for "open door"? You don't want the // door 開始 in さまざまな possible fault-明言する／公表するs, // do you? //I think (not 井戸／弁護士席 実験（する）d) that you only need to change // the next line to invert the logic of the locking const byte Locked=LOW; const byte 打ち明けるd=!Locked; //"not" locked... i.e. 打ち明けるd will // be made LOW, if Locked=HIGH char sFrmTag[13] = "123456789abc"; //Yes... 13 if you // need to 蓄える／店 12 characters. 初期の contents // 独断的な. A place to 蓄積する string returned // from reader. byte bTmp; const int SerInToArdu=2; //Defines pin data passes //to Arduino over from RFID reader const int SerOutFrmArdu=3; //Not used, but //"fills" a parameter in the 始める，決める up of //mySerialPort NewSoftSerial mySerialPort(SerInToArdu,SerOutFrmArdu); // Creates serial port for RFID reader to be 大（公）使館員d to. // Using pins 0 and 1 is problematic, as they are also // connecting the 開発 PC to the Arduino for // programming, and for the 生産（高） sent to the serial // 監視する. boolean TagMatch(char sToMatch[13]) //This subroutine uses Bad Programming by // referring to a 全世界の variable // within itself (sFrmTag) // //For some 推論する／理由, I couldn't get... // "if (sFrmTag=="8627A6B73544")..." // to work. { boolean boTmp=true; for (byte bTmp=1; bTmp < 13; bTmp++) {if (sFrmTag[bTmp]!=sToMatch[bTmp]) {boTmp=誤った;}; } return boTmp; };//end of TagMatch 無効の OpenDoor() { Serial.println("開始 door"); digitalWrite(LockPin,打ち明けるd); 延期する(3000); Serial.println("Re-locking door"); digitalWrite(LockPin,Locked); }; 無効の 体制／機構() { mySerialPort.begin(9600); pinMode(LockPin,OUTPUT); digitalWrite(LockPin,Locked); Serial.begin(9600);//For 接近 to serial 監視する channel Serial.println(); Serial.println("Bring an RFID tag 近づく the reader..."); }; 無効の 宙返り飛行() { int incomingByte; //The "then" part of the に引き続いて will only 遂行する／発効させる // after the RFID reader has sent something to the Arduino if (mySerialPort.利用できる() > 0) { // read the 後継の byte from the serial 衝撃を和らげるもの incomingByte = mySerialPort.read(); if (incomingByte==2){bTmp=0;}//no ; here else { if (bTmp<12) { sFrmTag[bTmp]=incomingByte; bTmp++;}; } Serial.print(incomingByte, DEC); Serial.print(' '); //The "Serial.println"s in the に引き続いて only for //debugging, and as a way to find out the 重要な //in a new tag. If the tag is misread, you will //いつかs get weird results... it would be best //to 実験（する） that incomingByte is 0-9 or A-B before //appending it to sFrmTag[], above. if (incomingByte==3) { Serial.println(); Serial.println(sFrmTag); //に引き続いて hardcodes the program //to open the door for either of //two tags I have... //You'll have to change the values //sFrmTag needs to match. //公式文書，認める that I have 含むd the //checksum as part of the tag's //"number" if (TagMatch("8627A6B73544")|| TagMatch("0038CA584684")) {OpenDoor();} }; };//end of 宙返り飛行() }
.... and here is the 回路・連盟 I used, "石油精製" of the Arduino...
It isn't "perfect", but it was the quickest path to something that 作品, given the 力／強力にする 供給（する）s, etc, I had on 手渡す. 現実に, it is probably pretty good, if you 代用品，人 a "better" resistor than the BC549 I used... but a BC549 will work! (If any 専門家s could send in advice I could 地位，任命する here about what to look for when trying to get the "権利" transistor, I'd be 感謝する. Email 演説（する）／住所 at 底（に届く）. Help for the newbie choosing a transistor would be even better than just the part number of one or two suitable 装置s. By the way... while asking you, 専門家s, for help... Is my 結論 that the higher-than-5v coming from Vrly cannot, for some 推論する／理由, "押し進める" its way "up" through the base of the transistor to do Bad Things to the Arduino 生産（高）? If you could explain all of that in more 科学の 条件, I'd be 利益／興味d.)
R1: 300 ohms. R2: 2K2. T1: BC549 (Probably not idea. What I had!)
Working left to 権利 across the diagram...
LED is just to give you a visual 指示，表示する物 of what should be happening.
The transistor which （機の）カム to 手渡す for me was a BC549, an NPN transistor. (I'm no 専門家 on transistors as switches.... but this one 作品... here... with my other 構成要素s!)(Want to know more? Try the Electronics-Tutorials guide to transistors as switches.)
"RLY" is a small relay; D1 is The Important Diode you should always have on coils and DC モーターs (because they 会社にする／組み込む coils). There's more on why you need a "snubber diode" in a separate essay I wrote for you.
"VRLY doesn't have to be a 殴打／砲列, of course. And you might be able to tap it to 供給（する） the VUNREG for your Arduino, but I've had bad experiences in the past with mixing the 力／強力にする 供給（する） to a relay with the 力／強力にする 供給（する） to a microcontroller... and in any 事例／患者, my relay needed a わずかに high voltage
"ESP" is the electromechanical strikeplate which 打ち明けるs the door when that is called for. 公式文書，認める how its 回路・連盟 is 完全に separate from everything else, thanks to the 孤立／分離 the relay 供給するs. The electromechanical strikeplate has a big electromagnet, hence coil, hence 崩壊（する）ing fields... and so I like having the 回路・連盟 separate. (A 逆転する biased diode should be put across the electromechanical strikeplate, just like the one across the relay's coil.)
Now... about that capacitor...
I had a problem. By a bit of bad luck, I happened to put "打ち明ける door" signal on D13. The 肯定的な thinkers の中で you out there will call it good luck, because I learned something: When the Arduino 力／強力にするs up, and after a reset, before your code 遂行する／発効させるs, D13 is configured as an 生産（高）, and 簡潔に pulsed high before coming to 残り／休憩（する） as a low. (The other 数字表示式の I/O lines will be configured as inputs while the Arduino is 力／強力にするing up... a much more 満足な default 行為.)
As a result, every time the Arduino was reset, or there was one of the rare but not unheard of 力／強力にする 削減（する）s to my home, when the 力／強力にする （機の）カム 支援する, my 前線 door 打ち明けるd.
Don't use D13 to 運動 the electromechanical strikeplate that locks your door.
If you don't want a "fascinating" excursion, you may skip 負かす／撃墜する to （警察などへの）密告，告訴（状） on PCBs for the Arduino/RFID 接近 監査役.
Before I became aware of the fact that this 簡潔な／要約する high pulse on D13 is a "feature" of just D13, I 始める，決める about "solving" the problem by putting a 1000 uF capacitor in the 回路・連盟 where shown in blue above.
The capacitor will 普通は be 発射する／解雇するd. When the line from the Arduino goes high, the capacitor will start 非難する. It will take a little time (in human 条件... a long time in electronic 条件) for the voltage at the base of the transistor to rise high enough for the transistor to "turn on", i.e. 許す enough 現在の to flow to make the coil of the relay change over the 接触するs in the relay.
This is a Good Thing... because the 簡潔な／要約する "high" pulse from the Arduino's reset won't be long enough to 告発（する），告訴（する）／料金 the capacitor 十分に, and the lock won't be opened in 返答 to the 簡潔な／要約する pulse. But...
This is a Bad Thing... because it will leave the transistor dissipating large 量s of 力／強力にする for too long. My 回路・連盟, with the capacitor, worked 罰金 for many weeks. But during a time when I was 変えるing everything from proto-board to PCB, and 活動させる／戦時編成するing the lock 繰り返して, with little "残り／休憩（する）" between 活性化s, I 燃やすd out the transistor. It was a bad design, and finally "fell over". This is discussed in 詳細（に述べる） in the helpful discussion on the 支配する at the Arduino 会議. 公式文書，認める how a 明確な／細部 question, with as many 詳細（に述べる）s as possible, even 詳細（に述べる）s the poster thinks irrelevant, can bring a 早い, helpful 返答.
Happily, as is often the 事例／患者, there was a way to get to where I 手配中の，お尋ね者 to be, once I stopped asking the wrong question. Once I stopped trying to make the capacitor idea work, and 設立する out that D13's 行為 is idiosyncratic, I was able to "go around" my "problem". (I think that moving the capacitor to the other 味方する of the transistor might work... although it might make the relay "chatter" while the voltage was passing through the level at which the coil pulls in the 接触するs.... But happily, I don't need to 調査する all of that now, do I. But I do wonder if... (^_^)... )
You may or may not want the に引き続いて. You don't need it. It is the PCB I use with my ModernDevice RBBB Arduino clone... but I'm afraid I'll have to leave you to 人物／姿／数字 out the off-board 関係s you'll need. Not "ロケット／急騰する science", but don't feel foolish if you are new to this sort of thing and can't make sense of it. It isn't 井戸／弁護士席 done for the use of others, sorry. You don't need to 供給する sockets for all of the 脚s of the RBBB... just enough to connect the few signals which need to be connected, 含むing the ground, Vunreg and Vreg lines. Strategically 追加する a few more to 供給する mechanical 安定. The image below shows you what the "traces" 味方する of the 選び出す／独身-味方するd PCB should look like. (The "resistor" and diode (D3) at the lower left are NOT part of what should be on the PCB... they show the electromechanical strikeplate which you are going to 運動 with the 回路・連盟, and an extra snubbing diode.)
If you don't happen to use the RBBB for your Arduino work, 恐れる not... the board would still save you a lot of time.
関係s between my board and Arduino...
I have a 塀で囲む-wart producing an unregulated (and somewhat variable!) 8v. That goes first to my board (PCB235), to 力／強力にする the relay coil, etc, and from there is passed on to my RBBB. I have a link on PCB235 which 許すs me to disconnect the V-unreg 料金d to the RBBB when I am 力／強力にするing it 経由で my USB programming cable.
You may download an Eagle CAD とじ込み／提出する for that board, too, if you wish. But you will need the Eagle CAD 一括. There was an impressive 解放する／自由な 見解／翻訳／版 for hobbyists. The 裁判，公判 was... not fatally 制限するd, and no time 限界. Windows, Linux, Mac. Even in "the old days", if you want to 利益（をあげる） from things done with the Eagle CAD, you have to 株... There was a "lite" 見解／翻訳／版 for only $49 (6/11). March 2019 I discovered that Eagle is now part of the Autodesk 大臣の地位, and I didn't, in a cursory check, see anything about low cost 選択s for hobbyists. See also DesignSpark. I have a separate page about 解放する／自由な or low cost PCB design 道具s. "解放する／自由な or low cost" does not mean "rubbish"! SCHOOLS SHOULD use KiCad, so pupils can USE at home what htey learn at school! (Rant ends.)
The に引き続いて will show you how to connect my Arduino-carrying board to the 95 ¢ breakout board Sparkfun 申し込む／申し出s for the 革新s ID-20 (which they also sell, $35 (6/11)). The breakout board is 井戸／弁護士席 価値（がある） buying, and buy two of the 2mm pin sockets at the same time, and use them.
You really don't need the に引き続いて, but it tells you how to connect from my main board (above) to the RFID module. (The "Blue" 関係 is also called "Green2" in some places. It connects to the ID-20's "B2", which I didn't use in my design, but I thought I might want that signal someday. There is more discussion of these 事柄s 近づく the 最高の，を越す of this page.
Nota bene: If you don't use my PCB as a "breakout for the breakout"!, be sure to の間の-connect the two pins which need to be carried to the main board 経由で the 黒人／ボイコット wire.
You may download an Eagle CAD とじ込み／提出する for that board, too, if you wish. If you 港／避難所't tried the Eagle CAD 一括. There was an impressive 解放する／自由な 見解／翻訳／版 for hobbyists. The 裁判，公判 was... not fatally 制限するd, and no time 限界. Windows, Linux, Mac. Even in "the old days", if you want to 利益（をあげる） from things done with the Eagle CAD, you have to 株... There was a "lite" 見解／翻訳／版 for only $49 (6/11). March 2019 I discovered that Eagle is now part of the Autodesk 大臣の地位, and I didn't, in a cursory check, see anything about low cost 選択s for hobbyists. See also DesignSpark. I have a separate page about 解放する／自由な or low cost PCB design 道具s. "解放する／自由な or low cost" does not mean "rubbish"! SCHOOLS SHOULD use KiCad, so pupils can USE at home what they learn at school! (Rant ends.)
Page has been 実験（する）d for 同意／服従 with INDUSTRY (not MS-only) 基準s, using the 解放する／自由な, 公然と accessible validator at validator.w3.org. Mostly passes.
AND passes...
CSS behind the page checked, at least once upon a time!, with http://jigsaw.w3.org/css-validator/
Why does this page 原因（となる） a script to run? Because of the Google パネル盤s, and the code for the search button. Also, I have some of my pages' traffic 監視するd for me by eXTReMe tracker. They 申し込む／申し出 a 解放する／自由な tracker. If you want to try one, check out their 場所／位置. Why do I について言及する the script? Be sure you know all you need to about spyware.
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